We flew Cheju-Do, Korea's only island province, after a long day at the festival. Upon arrival in Cheju City on the island's north coast, we hopped a bus to the small, charming town of Seogwipo on the south side. There, we checked into our yeogwan and made our way towards Cheonjiyeon Waterfall, nestled deep in a gorge on the edge of town. On our way there, we encountered the first of the harubang, the mysterious Korean "grandfather stones" that guarded ancient villages on Cheju Island (now the ubiquitous tourism symbol of the island).